ELY, Nevada—The scent of piñon pine crammed the air because the Ghost Prepare of Previous Ely rolled to a cease between the Duck Creek Vary and one other railway. Two peaks of jagged limestone towered above the sagebrush and juniper timber that crammed the vary, offering habitat for elk, deer, pronghorn, rattlesnakes and sage grouse. Sunset right here within the Nice Basin Desert reveals a number of the darkest skies within the nation.
Mark Bassett says for greater than 20 years his full-time job has been “to place butts in seats” to see this stretch of the desert. He’s the manager director of the Nevada Northern Railway Museum, a nationwide historic landmark, the place staff costume in denim overalls and engineer caps to restore outdated steam engines, conduct them on the historic tracks and protect railway information courting to the early 1900s.
“It’s been mentioned that it’s like the employees went to lunch and simply by no means got here again,” he mentioned of the museum, which appears to have stopped in time for the reason that railway closed in 1983.
On most days, the practice is crammed with vacationers, however on a sunny October afternoon, it was crammed with a small group of locals and environmentalists to see how the realm between the HiLine and Mainline railways in central Nevada might be crammed with 1,000,000 cubic yards of rubble throughout a seven-year industrial operation that might excavate a close-by mountaintop and additional deplete the underground water provide.



All of it will be for a 1,000-megawatt, closed-loop pumped storage undertaking—a virtually century-old know-how present process a resurgence as a part of the nation’s clear power transition. Throughout the nation, the hydropower business, power specialists and lawmakers alike are proposing such initiatives that may retailer power from wind and photo voltaic installations to supply electrical energy when the solar isn’t shining or the wind isn’t blowing.
“What makes pumped storage so distinctive and beneficial within the power transition is its skill to supply extra energy when it’s wanted most,” mentioned Malcolm Woolf, president and CEO of the Nationwide Hydropower Affiliation.
Pumped storage requires two water reservoirs, one above the opposite. At evening, water is pumped uphill to the upper reservoir, then despatched again down by electricity-generating generators when power demand peaks or renewable assets can’t generate electrical energy, serving to to make sure grid stability throughout system-stressing occasions like record-hot summers. Pumped storage initiatives, nevertheless, can’t simply be constructed wherever. They want a mountainous space with a steep descent to offer the water a robust sufficient movement to spin the generators. So nearly all of the almost 100 pumped storage initiatives at present within the preliminary part with the Federal Power Regulatory Fee are all through the mountainous Western U.S.

R Plus Hydro thought White Pine County in Nevada was an perfect location for one such undertaking, with entry to close by transmission traces, federal lands to construct on and water to attract from.
Nevertheless, the undertaking, one of many furthest alongside within the FERC allowing approval course of approval course of, is hitting roadblocks with locals starting from Ely metropolis leaders to ranchers, tribes and environmentalists.
The opposition cites a scarcity of communication from the builders, a plan to construct on environmentally and culturally delicate land, concern over what would change into primarily a mining operation within the close by mountains and a risk to the profitability of 1 the area’s largest financial drivers—the Nevada Northern Railway Firm, which attracts hundreds of vacationers year-round to what locals say is essentially the most remoted city within the Decrease 48.
Then there’s the water.
Closed loop pumped storage initiatives want water to work, often by pumping aquifers or by bringing in floor water from a close-by river or lake (pumped storage may be constructed alongside a river, referred to as open-loop, however such initiatives have obtained much less help as a result of they require dams, which have drawn fierce pushback lately).
Right here within the drought-stricken Southwest, groundwater is briefly provide.
“Among the many most egregious issues about an organization like R Plus is that it masquerades as an environmental Moses,” mentioned Kyle Roerink, the manager director of the Nice Basin Water Community, a corporation targeted on water points in Nevada and Utah, referencing the Biblical determine main the Israelites to the promised land. “However in actuality, they’re going to be pumping from a groundwater basin over-allocated on paper and teetering on the point of not with the ability to present for future generations.”
Supporters of the undertaking, nevertheless, argue that pumped storage is the most affordable and most dependable approach to supply the electrical energy storage wanted for the clear power transition and can assist stimulate a rural neighborhood’s financial system.
The undertaking is much from being a executed deal, mentioned Matthew Shapiro, the corporate’s CEO. R Plus is seeking to be neighbor, he mentioned, whereas offering the storage capability wanted to make renewable power dependable. “It’ll be all a win-win alternative for the neighborhood,” he mentioned. “They’ll have each financial driver that at present exists plus a undertaking that might, by our estimations, maybe double county tax income, so there’s plenty of advantages to go round. So it’s only a matter of continuous to be responsive and deal with issues.”
The dispute provides but one other complication to the problem of transitioning the nation’s grid away from oil, gasoline and coal.
“Storage is an actual bottleneck for getting clear electrons into the grid,” mentioned Daniel Inman, a senior scientist with the Nationwide Renewable Power Lab who research the lifecycles of power techniques. He led a current examine that discovered, all through their lifespans, closed-loop pumped storage is essentially the most environmentally pleasant of the varied power storage applied sciences at present in the marketplace, although water utilization wasn’t thought-about in that analysis. It’s a confirmed know-how, he mentioned, making it simpler to design, set up and finance. It additionally helps create the inertia wanted to maintain up with electrical energy wants throughout peak demand and, as soon as constructed, can final for almost a century with routine upkeep. All of that has led to reservoirs offering round 90 % of the nation’s present power storage capability, and a resurgence of pumped storage improvement.
Different strategies of storing electrical energy, like lithium-ion batteries, require mining, one other problem hotly debated within the Silver State. Though pumped storage doesn’t have to mine for crucial minerals, it will possibly require an equal quantity of digging, as with the operation close to Ely, to construct reservoirs and spillways.
However like all issues within the West, it’s the water that can resolve the Ely undertaking’s destiny—serving to function a litmus take a look at for what closed-loop pump storage initiatives should face as extra are proposed within the area.

The primary native aquifer that provides close by cities and can be used for the undertaking in White Pine County is already over-appropriated by 75,955.79 acre ft—sufficient water for almost 200,000 houses. The basin solely yields about 70,000-acre ft a yr, based on paperwork from a neighborhood water district, which has expressed severe concern over how the undertaking might affect different customers.
“Regardless of these clear results, the District was unaware of the proposed undertaking and projected groundwater pumping till days earlier than the deadline to remark” on the undertaking, the district, which doesn’t have jurisdiction over the water and isn’t required to be notified, wrote in a letter to FERC.
A Struggle Over Water
Combating over water is nothing new in White Pine County.
For many years, the county, native cities, tribes and environmentalists fought the Southern Nevada Water Authority over a plan to construct a pipeline to pump the area’s groundwater for municipal use 300 miles away within the Las Vegas metropolitan space. The SNWA’s plan to pump 800,000 acre ft of water a yr from the area lastly failed in 2020.
Nevertheless, the pumped storage undertaking proposal has led alliances to shift. White Pine County has agreed to lease 8,688 acre ft of water to the undertaking’s builders annually for six years for $50,000, with extra being charged relying on how a lot is definitely pumped, however the state solely permitted 5,100 acre ft for the undertaking. The allocation got here from a water proper given by the state water engineer to the county in 1978 for a coal fireplace plant that by no means materialized. As soon as constructed, the 2 reservoirs will want a further 360 to 560 acre-feet a yr to account for evaporative loss.
Neighborhood leaders in Ely say they have been ignored of the dialog and most solely realized of the undertaking after the water was already allotted. To many, it’s one more water seize by massive cities, this time to supply them with inexperienced electrical energy, that leaves rural communities with nothing for themselves and their future.
“The county circled and simply principally gave away the water to the cities differently,” mentioned Rick Spilsbury, a member of the Ely Shoshone Tribe who serves on the board of administrators for the Nice Basin Water Community, which made its identify preventing the SNWA’s plan. “It’s a pipeline with out the pipeline.”

Regardless of the settlement between the county and R Plus Hydro, a subsidiary of a Salt Lake Metropolis-based actual property developer, no examine has been carried out on the potential impacts on water within the area, even when the corporate submitted its last licensing software to the Federal Power Regulatory Fee.
“They haven’t executed their primary homework,” mentioned Bassett, of the Nevada Northern Railway Museum, which has expressed quite a few issues over how the undertaking can doubtlessly affect the railway and the tourism it attracts. “I don’t know, it’s a water undertaking. Name me loopy. Name me just a little insane. That’d be the primary examine I’d do—ensure I acquired the water.”
Shapiro, the CEO of R Plus Hydro, mentioned the water examine is only one “of about 1,000 totally different research, and we are able to’t do them abruptly.”
Nevertheless, a scarcity of particulars like that and a scarcity of session between varied stakeholders resulted in FERC sending the corporate an inventory of 103 deficiencies in response to its last licensing software, which the corporate is at present working to resolve.
To even start pumping the water, the state water engineer’s allow for the undertaking requires that it submit a complete monitoring plan, which has but to be executed. The state additionally granted the undertaking much less water than R Plus Hydro and the county initially requested for.
If the water doesn’t find yourself getting used, the county will lose the proper to it, based on the state’s allow. That’s as a result of the county’s proper to the water—which is a part of 25,000 acre ft of water it has earmarked for industrial functions since 1978—has by no means been put to helpful use.
That’s pressured the county to seek for a approach to make use of the water, Roerink mentioned, as a result of if they will’t use it, they’ll lose it. “This undertaking exemplifies how regulatory constructs push communities into initiatives that aren’t of their finest curiosity,” he mentioned.
Railway Important for Area’s Financial system
If it wasn’t for the Nevada Northern Railway Museum, town of Ely might need disappeared. When mines within the state started to close down within the twentieth century, the cities that served them rapidly vanished, too. Immediately, Nevada is dwelling to extra ghost cities than some other U.S. state.
That might have occurred to Ely, Bassett mentioned, however the city got here up with a suggestion to Kennecott Mining, which constructed and owned the railroad after copper was found within the close by mountains: Give town the railroad when the mine ceased operations in order that Ely might develop a vacationer attraction hold its financial system afloat.
Kennecott mentioned sure.
So 35 years later, the practice depot stays open. Pristine buildings from the early 1900s dot the 56 acres that greater than 100 historic rail automobiles and three restored steam locomotives name dwelling.
Because it started operations 35 years in the past, the museum helped draw hundreds of holiday makers to the city of two,000 and has introduced in an estimated $107 million to White Pine County’s eating places and motels. Tens of millions have been spent to protect the railways and its locomotives, and up to date grants for thousands and thousands extra will fund additional restoration.



However visiting Ely isn’t any straightforward activity. The closest main cities are Las Vegas and Salt Lake Metropolis. “Guests coming to Ely, they’re committing to a 500-mile spherical journey at minimal,” Bassett mentioned.
His concern—and that of many locally—is that the pumped storage undertaking will take the encompassing pristine panorama that pulls most of the railway’s riders and switch it into an industrial web site because the reservoirs wanted for the undertaking are constructed.
A pit eight tales deep must be dug into the close by mountain vary for the higher reservoir. It’ll be no straightforward activity, mentioned Roger Bowers, a licensed geologist from Ely who has consulted on mining operations within the area. Each time he sees new paperwork from the undertaking, one thing adjustments, he mentioned. When requested his ideas on the excavation, he had one remark: “I want them plenty of luck.”
Bassett expects a 20 to 30 % drop in ridership if the undertaking the practice passes by is permitted. That ensuing drop in income would seemingly result in layoffs within the museum’s full-time employees of 25, which might ripple by town’s financial system.
Ely Mayor Nathan Robertson isn’t utterly against the concept of the undertaking. However he doubts will probably be viable. And he thinks R Plus has botched its public relations. The corporate got here in promising to avoid wasting the city. However speculative improvement is nothing new right here—Nevada did make its identify on mining, he mentioned.
“Again and again for tons of of years, this neighborhood has heard that,” he mentioned. “We’re most likely extra expert at this recreation than they’re. And so whenever you are available, type of with an inflated image view of what you wish to do, I feel this neighborhood sees by that fairly rapidly.”
‘Unspoiled Nevada’
The Western Shoshone referred to as this stretch of the Nice Basin Desert dwelling for 20,000 years—since lengthy earlier than any railroad monitor was laid down.
On the opposite aspect of the mountain the place the pumped storage undertaking is proposed is the location of Bahsahwahbee, or Sacred Water Valley, a ceremonial and pilgrimage web site the place hundreds gathered annually for generations. However throughout the nineteenth century, because the U.S. colonized the West, eleven massacres have been carried out within the space, together with three of the biggest slaughters of Indigenous individuals on report.
On the web site of Bahsahwahbee, swamp cedars develop out at elevations far under the place they sometimes are discovered. “We imagine our ancestors’ spirits are within the timber that develop on this valley,” mentioned Delaine Spilsbury, an Ely Shoshone elder and the mom of Rick Spilsbury. The Duckwater Shoshone Tribe, the Ely Shoshone Tribe and the Confederated Tribes of the Goshute are now pushing for Congress to designate the realm because the Bahsahwahbee Nationwide Monument. On the proposed web site of the White Pine Pumped Storage undertaking, on the opposite aspect of the close by mountain ranges, dozens of Indigenous artifacts have been found.

Spilsbury’s most important concern is the destruction of the native atmosphere. Springs movement close to her dwelling within the Duck Creek Vary. That water has been the lifeblood of her individuals for generations, and allowed crops and animals to thrive. For Spilsbury, bow looking is a lifestyle; in her dwelling, trophy animals cowl the partitions. Few locations, she and others mentioned, are higher for looking.
However over time, recreation has grown much less plentiful. Close by lakes have been sucked almost dry. “The looking has gone approach down and with this water undertaking and destroying that mountain [for it], it’ll be absolute zilch,” she mentioned.
The world is extremely biodiverse, mentioned Patrick Donnelly, the Heart for Organic Variety’s Nice Basin director, and residential to sage grouse lek habitat, the place the threatened birds have interaction of their famed and elaborate mating rituals. “When you destroy leks, the sage grouse cease mating they usually die off,” he mentioned. Sage grouse, he mentioned, will actually stand on the fringe of a improvement the place a lek as soon as was.
“It’s attractive. It’s unspoiled Nevada. It’s what makes Nevada nice—a kind of final finest locations,” Donnelly mentioned. “So the concept that we’re going to place a hydro undertaking and open up big entry roads for giant rig vehicles in all of that is simply unconscionable.”
Dozens of functions to construct new pumped storage initiatives all through the Southwest have been filed with FERC since 2017, whereas extra are seemingly on the way in which as photo voltaic and wind initiatives come on-line, tax credit beneath the Inflation Discount Act incentivize the initiatives and laws to reform allowing is pushed for in Congress to make it simpler for closed-loop pumped storage developments and different power initiatives to be constructed.
Mountaineering up the Duck Creek Basin the place the higher reservoir of the White Pine Pumped Storage undertaking is deliberate, Roerink repeated a standard sentiment of environmentalists confronting clear power initiatives being constructed on public lands: “Is that this our subsequent sacrifice zone?”
Darkish Skies
Years in the past, Mark Bassett stumbled upon a phrase he had by no means heard earlier than—astrotourism.
About 60 miles east of Ely is Nice Basin Nationwide Park. The park has been designated a “Dark Sky Place.” However attending to the park to see these darkish skies isn’t any straightforward activity. “You drive out within the afternoon they usually have an awesome astronomy program, however there’s no lodging there,” Bassett mentioned. “So that you’ve gone out, you observe the darkish skies and now it’s a must to drive 60 miles again on a two-lane freeway throughout two mountain passes beneath guess what? Darkish skies.”
So Bassett had an concept: Companion with the park to create a “star practice” the place passengers take one of many vintage locomotives out at evening with rangers on board.

This system has been wildly profitable. Tickets go on sale a yr upfront and promote out virtually instantly. However the pumped storage undertaking threatens that standard attraction. The location the place the practice stops for passengers to look by telescopes is sort of in entrance of the place the pumped storage undertaking is deliberate to be constructed. If the undertaking will get permitted, it’ll take no less than seven years to construct, and he expects there to be lights shining within the space nonstop.
At evening exterior of Rick and Delaine Spilsbury’s houses, these evening skies that carry guests to Ely from world wide are on full show. The celebrities are almost overwhelming; there isn’t any mild moreover that from the moon.
Outdoors the scent of piñon pine nonetheless lingers. Water gurgles within the close by stream. Constellations rise in all places and the clouds of the Milky Means smear the sky.
There are a lot of issues life doesn’t provide right here that you just would possibly discover in a metropolis, Rick mentioned, however not views like these, which have gotten rarer by the yr.